Korean Cultural Diplomacy Through Hanbok

Cultural diplomacy is the government’s effort to establish communication with the people of other countries using culture as a communication tool. This cultural approach helps the government achieve its goals effectively and pleasantly. A concrete example of this cultural diplomacy can be seen in bilateral activities between South Korea and Indonesia. South Korea is building cooperation with Indonesia as part of its national strategy to meet domestic and defense needs in facing the challenges of globalization. One concrete example is the Hanbok Experience program organized by the Korean Cultural Center (KCC) Indonesia as part of South Korea’s cultural diplomacy efforts. In this program, Indonesian people are given the opportunity to get to know more closely what Hanbok is, namely traditional Korean clothing, through direct experiences such as trying on Hanbok, taking photos and playing traditional Korean games. This program is designed to promote Korean culture and strengthen relations between the two countries, as well as build a positive image of South Korea in the eyes of the Indonesian people. Hanbok is the name of traditional clothing from Korea. In North Korea, this clothing is known as Choson-ot, while in South Korea it is called Hanbok. Even though we know Hanbok as Korean clothing, its current use refers more to the clothing style of the Joseon Dynasty. Hanbok can be worn in formal, semi-formal events, as well as in various Korean festival celebrations, both traditional and modern. Hanbok has a history of development from time to time starting from 57 BC to the present.

The historical development of Hanbok from time to time

The development of Hanbok began during the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BC – 668 AD), which refers to the founding of the Baekje, Silla and Goguryeo Kingdoms in Korea. Some basic elements of Hanbok such as jeogori (shirt), baji (pants), and chima (skirt) are thought to have been worn since ancient times. However, it was during the Three Kingdoms era that Hanbok began to be worn frequently and developed. In this era, men and women wore waist-length clothes and fairly tight trousers. At the end of the Three Kingdoms period, noble women were allowed to wear long skirts, loose clothing, and they also usually wore waist-length robes.

During the Goryeo Dynasty period (918 – 1392), changes to Hanbok occurred when there was a peace treaty with the Mongol Kingdom, which also involved the marriage between the King of Goryeo and the Mongol Queen. This change caused Goryeo employees’ clothing to change to Mongol style. The skirt was changed to be shorter, the shirt was tied at the chest with a wide ribbon, and designed to be somewhat slim. Furthermore, during the Joseon Dynasty (1397 – 1897), the clothing (jeogori) of Hanbok slowly began to change to become tight and short. In the 16th century, tops were made slightly puffy and only reached the waist. At the end of the 19th century, the magoja appeared, namely a Manchu style jacket which is still often worn today.

During the royal period, the colors of Hanbok had a very important meaning, where these colors symbolized the social position or marital status of the person wearing it. Hanbok color selection is based on the five yin-yang elements: blue (wood element), red (fire element), white (metal element), black (water element), and yellow (earth element). White hanbok can be worn by nobles and ordinary people. The color white symbolizes honesty, integrity and purity of soul. During the Japanese occupation, this color also became a symbol of patriotism. Japan prohibited Koreans from wearing white clothes, but nationalists deliberately wore them to oppose colonialism. Black symbolizes intelligence and wisdom. This color Hanbok was worn by intellectuals during the royal era, in modern times, black Hanbok is worn at funerals. Green is one of the Hanbok colors that is quite widely worn even though it does not represent the yin-yang element, this color is a symbol of new beginnings, because in ancient times, green Hanbok was only worn by married women. Blue Hanbok is often worn in spring because it symbolizes birth and hope. Apart from nobles, ordinary people can also wear blue Hanbok. In the yin-yang principle, yellow symbolizes the center of the universe, during the royal period, yellow Hanbok was used limited to the emperor and the royal family. And for female nobles who are not yet married, they wear light yellow Hanbok, but nowadays, yellow Hanbok can be worn by anyone regardless of social strata. Red symbolizes luck and wealth. Red Hanbok is often worn at weddings or palace celebrations, where Korean women who are getting married wear red Hanbok as a symbol of hope for prosperity and good luck during their married life.

In the past, Hanbok colors indicated a person’s social status and marital status. However, nowadays, this is not given much attention. Now, Hanbok makers have the freedom to use a variety of colors without having to associate them with a particular social status or group. Modern Hanbok is often referred to as Hanbok gaeryang, which denotes modified clothing from traditional models. This update combines Western influences while maintaining the basic elements of traditional Hanbok, such as the length of the skirt and trousers, fabric, patterns, colors, and decorations or accessories. Because it is a combination of modern and traditional versions, today’s Hanbok is easier to use for everyday use. Even though it is more practical, modern Hanbok is made while still adhering to traditional Korean values, messages and spirit.